How To Install Valves And Faucets In Your Home

Need to install new valves in your remodeled home?  is there to help you with your valve and faucet needs. Most valves usually come with pipe-threaded openings and are screwed to the pipe just like any other fitting. If you have a soldered copper tubing system, you can get valves with solder-on, compression, or flare openings. Or you can sweat on a male-threaded adapter and screw the valve to the adapter. Some plastic valves are equipped with non-threaded solvent-welded openings, but most have threaded openings and are screwed onto an adapter that has been welded to the pipe.

Single faucets, like hose bibs, have a pipe thread base and can be screwed onto the end of any pipe. To install one in an existing pipeline, you can insert a tee into the line and then screw the faucet onto the tee.

There is a way to install a faucet on either a copper tube or iron pipeline without cutting the pipe. You can use either a saddle-type faucet or screw a regular faucet on a saddle-tee connector. A saddle connector clamps to the pipe with bolts, and the water enters the saddle and the faucet through a hole drilled in the pipe.

These days the entire installation of bathroom and kitchen faucets has become very standardized. Most faucets are hot and cold, single-handle faucets on kitchen and bathroom sinks. New sinks and almost all sinks that have been manufactured in the last 15 years or so, have a standard 4-inch or 8-inch space between the faucet holes to accommodate all standard faucet assemblies.

When the rough plumbing is done, stubs of the hot and cold water pipes are left protruding through the wall where the sink will be located. These pipes should be about 20 inches above the floor and about 8 to 10 inches apart. The hot-water pipe will be on the left when you face the wall. After the cabinets and sink are in place and secured, it is time to install the supply stops and faucets.

When you buy supply stops, you must be sure they are compatible with the pipe stubs. If you have threaded iron stubs, be sure the stop valves have standard iron pipe size threads on the inlet opening. Copper tubing stubs give you a choice of the kind of fittings you want. You can get female solder fittings to sweat on, adapters to sweat on that will take a valve with pipe thread, and valves that have flare or compression fittings. Compression joints are much easier to install in this kind of situation, when you will be lying under a sink with your feet up the wall.

In addition to two supply stops, you will need the faucet assembly of your choice and two flexible supply tubes with compression fittings. Your hardware or plumbing dealer will help you pick out all the fittings you’ll need to go with the faucet assembly you’ve chosen.

Because you are usually working with chrome-plated compression fittings in this kind of an installation, the main tools you’ll need are a couple of smooth-jawed adjustable wrenches. A basin wrench is also desirable to tighten the nuts that are way up under the sink.

The first step is to turn off the water. You may be able to turn off just the section of the system near where you are working or you may have to turn off the main valve. If your stub is iron pipe, remove the cap with a pipe wrench and clean the threads with a wire brush. Slide the escutcheons onto the stubs, apply pipe compound or Teflon tape to the threads, and screw on the valves. When they start to get tight, stop turning so the valve outlet is straight up. Don’t turn them too far so that you have to back off. Turning tight squeezes the pipe joint compound out of some threads, and backing off may cause a leak.

If you have a copper tubing system, there will either be a cap soldered onto the stub or the stub will have been crimped flat and soldered. Use a tubing cutter to cut the tubing off about 1 ½ inches from the wall. Slide the escutcheons onto the pipes, then the coupling nut, the compression ring, and finally the valve itself. Hold the outlet of the valve up and slide it over the compression ring. Turn the nut onto the threads as tight as you can with your fingers and then tighten it with a wrench. It will usually make a squeaking sound when it seats. Upon doing this, you have completed your task!

News Reporter
Janice Morgan is the head writer at Gonzagala. She loves writing as much as she loves her seventeen cats! Her articles on nature are well appreciated.